As it happened, I was travelling by bicycle too, though my pilgrimage was more literary than culinary. I had come to this remote part of France on the trail of an event a 139km bike race called the Tour de Mont Aigoual that didn't actually exist, except in the mind of Dutch novelist Tim Krabb. His 1978 account of this fictional race, The Rider, has become a cult classic among bike and book fans seeking something more original than the usual "burning thighs and bursting lungs" school of cycling literature..

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